mexican friends

The surf crew at one of our "Secret Spots". I made some great friends and look forward to seeing them next year.. and the year after... and.....

The Summer of 2009 in Mexico....

A Great Ending Of Yet Another Father/Daughter Vacation On The Isolated Pacific Coastline of Mainland Mexico

It was another long day of driving, but by night we had arrived back at the black sand beach where we had first started, to stay the night at the same hotel run by Paco. At that time we were toasted from surfing so hard and the whole trip, that we hardly got unloaded before dropping dead on our concrete slab beads for a solid nights sleep. We would make our call for the surf come morning.

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I had to put this photo of Pete taking a massive wave and making a backside barrel before taking it on his head. Pete charged every wave with passion and thirst.


To tell you the truth though both Peter and I felt like we were on our last leg after surfing our hearts out for the past two weeks.


There was only two days left of the trip plus one day of traveling back home. We finally coaxed ourselves out of bed and took a look at the surf behind Paco's Hotel. It looks pretty righteous as my dad would say. It had shrunk back down to a good six foot and was barreling as always. To tell you the truth though both Peter and I felt like we were on our last leg after surfing our hearts out for the past two weeks. We took one look at the surf and just decided we needed to find a wave that we could just mess around on and get a few turns in before going back home. We got word that the road blocks had settled down and that we might be able to get to the waves down south. It's kinda funny but we were almost hoping to catch some waves that wouldn't be all that great so it wouldn't be so hard to leave them behind and go back to flat Florida.

We checked out of Paco's little hotel for the last time on the trip and started the hour or so drive south to cram in a few more waves before having to leave. We arrived at our surf spot (which just for the record I won't give you the name of because people are already starting to crowd up the line up) around noonish, threw on some bathing suits, and went out for a good two hour session on 3 - 4 ft semi choppy waves. This session felt like a good warm up to prepare me for Florida surf.

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The coconut groves stretched for a hundred miles or more and made the landscape spectacular and tropical. Here we stand at the side of the road while dad takes a quick photo for the record.

Pete and I took a little siesta and hit the surf for another evening sesh before collapsing in the tent for a GOOD nights sleep. Those blow up air mattresses are much more comfortable than sleeping on hotel concrete slabs!

The next morning was our last. We planed to surf till we dropped, pack up our camp sight, and take the last long drive of the trip to Puerto Vallarta so we could catch the plane the next day. Trust me, Pete and I really did plan on staying out from seven in the morning till two in the afternoon but I don't think our bodies had planned on it. I'd say we surfed a good solid three hours before we put up the surrender flag and made our way out of the water. I finally got a satisfying wave in with three good backside snaps and decided it was time to go in because I wasn't sure if I could manage another one, I might have ended up falling flat on my face. I will say though that there is nothing more satisfying than being dead beat worn out from surfing. You really feel like you've accomplished what you came to do if you leave a trip barely able to move your muscles.


I want to catch some more waves to tell stories just as my dad has told me as I am growing up.


After taking the same amount of time to neatly pack up as we did surfing that morning, we all got on my dad's Mexican express as we drove back to Puerto Vallarta.

The last day of the trip was the longest. I am really starting to dislike airports and customs after having to deal with them so much. Well, eventually we made it home after a hectic day in airports and almost missing one of our flights (we actually delayed the flight by seven minutes!) and here I am now typing up another story of yet another successfully Mexico trip. All I can think of right now is how I just can't wait to go back next year to surf the black sand beach and further challenge its power to my limits. I want to catch some more waves to tell stories just as my dad has told me as I am growing up.

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