We arrived late Friday night and stayed in a hotel were
we found air conditioning for the first time in awhile. When
we pulled up to the surf spot in the morning we immediately
regretted going there. the surf was maybe 1ft. on the sets!
We drove around and finally found a little right hand point
to play around on for the day. After surfing for a couple
hours we had our first good meal in what seemed like a decade(spaghetti
and chocolate milk). Might sound weird but it was a change
from tacos, enchiladas, and tacos.
We woke up for our last day and session in Mexico, before
leaving on a plane early the next morning, to the sound of
roaring waves behind our hotel. Excitedly we put the boards
on the car knowing in our minds that if it was a solid 3ft.
behind the hotel it had to be going off on the point. This
is what we had been waiting for. We pulled up to the break
thinking we had made the best decision of our lives coming
here. The swell had finally arrived and we looked out at the
surf to see solid 4ft. sets coming through for hundreds of
yards. When we paddled out it didn't take long for us to realize
that the surf was rapidly growing. For about four hours I
caught enough waves to last me for a month. I even pulled
into the biggest barrel of my life so far. My dad saw it and
said a normal size car could have fit in it. I stayed in it
for a gook while until something weird happen and I was pitched
over the falls into the flats. It took everything I had to
keep my bathing suit from coming clear over my head, and
when I popped up my dad was uncontrollably laughing his head
off. It was without a doubt the best session of the trip and
maybe even my life so far. I didn't want to get out of the
water, but still I was ready to come home to my mom and sister.
By the time we got out of the water there were consistent
12ft. faces coming through, and they were the most playful
12ft. barrels I've ever seen.
The entire trip was absolutely incredible from the cultural
environment, the people, and sometimes the food(I ate some
bad chicken and it had me throwing up for a day). I personally
think that it would be a fun trip for anyone, even if you
can't surf, just to experience something different and probably
something that would take most people out of their comfort
I really want to thank my mom and dad for making this trip
possible every year and my little sister for keeping my room
clean and baking up some good tasting treats for our return
home. I can't wait to see what next years trip has in store.